Perfume Warning: You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you log in or create an account, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.Anti-spam check. Do not fill this in! ==Dilution classes and terminologies== [[File:1811-Rosoli-Flacon.jpg|thumb|upright|Original [[Eau de Cologne]] flacon 1811, from [[Johann Maria Farina]], [[Farina gegenüber]]]] [[File:Vintage Atomizer Perfume Bottle.JPG|thumb|Vintage atomizer perfume bottle]] Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically [[ethanol]] or a mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The intensity and longevity of a fragrance is based on the concentration, intensity, and longevity of the aromatic compounds, or perfume oils, used. As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's approximate concentration by the percent of perfume oil in the volume of the final product. The most widespread terms<ref name="NYT71218">{{cite news |author1=Tynan Sinks |title=The Difference Between Perfume, Cologne and Other Fragrances |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/12/smarter-living/differences-perfume-cologne-fragrance.html |access-date=13 July 2018 |work=The New York Times |date=12 July 2018 |quote=You'll see all sorts of names in the fragrance section: perfume, eau de toilette, parfum, eau de cologne. What makes them different — and in many cases, more expensive? |archive-date=12 July 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180712175250/https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/12/smarter-living/differences-perfume-cologne-fragrance.html |url-status=live }}</ref> are: * '''Parfum''' or '''extrait''' (P): 15–40% aromatic compounds ([[International Fragrance Association|IFRA]]: typically ~20%). In English, parfum is also known as perfume extract, pure perfume, or simply perfume. * '''Esprit de parfum''' (ESdP): 15–30% aromatic compounds, a seldom used strength concentration between EdP and parfum. * '''Eau de parfum''' (EdP) or '''parfum de toilette''' (PdT): 10–20% aromatic compounds (typically ~15%). It is sometimes called "eau de perfume" or "millésime."{{Citation needed|date=August 2023}} Parfum de toilette is a less common term, most popular in the 1980s, that is generally analogous to eau de parfum. * '''[[Eau de toilette]]''' (EdT): 5–15% aromatic compounds (typically ~10%). This is the staple for most masculine perfumes. * '''[[eau de Cologne|Eau de cologne]]''' (EdC): 3–8% aromatic compounds (typically ~5%). This concentration is often simply called cologne. * '''Eau fraîche''': 3% or less aromatic compounds. This general term encompasses products sold as "splashes," "mists," "veils" and other imprecise terms. Such products may be diluted with water rather than oil or alcohol.<ref name="NYT71218"/> ===Imprecise terminology=== [[File:J.B. Filz Vienna 2007.jpg|thumb|upright|J.B. Filz in Vienna. Perfumeries with long traditions, such as J.B. Filz, created their own scents.<ref>{{cite web |title=Scents from Vienna |url=http://www.wien.info/en/lifestyle-scene/trendy/scents-from-vienna |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131219183158/http://www.wien.info/en/lifestyle-scene/trendy/scents-from-vienna |archive-date=19 December 2013 |access-date=19 December 2013 |work=wien.info}}</ref>]] The wide range in the percentages of aromatic compounds that may be present in each concentration means that the terminology of extrait, EdP, EdT, and EdC is quite imprecise with regard to oil concentration. Although an EdP will often be more concentrated than an EdT and in turn an EdC, this is not always the case. Different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. Therefore, although the oil concentration of a perfume in EdP dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in EdT from within a company's same range, the actual amount will vary among companies. An EdT from one house may have a higher concentration of aromatic compounds than an EdP from another. Furthermore, some fragrances with the same ''product name'' but having a different ''concentration'' may not only differ in their dilutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EdT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EdP, the EdT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or fewer base notes. ''[[Chanel No. 5]]'' is a good example: its parfum, EdP, EdT, and now-discontinued EdC concentrations are in fact different compositions (the parfum dates to 1921, the EdT from the 1950s, and the EdP was not developed until the 1980s). In some cases, words such as ''extrême'', ''intense'', or ''concentrée'' that might indicate a higher aromatic concentration are actually completely different fragrances, related only because of a similar perfume ''accord''. An example of this is Chanel's ''Pour Monsieur'' and ''Pour Monsieur concentrée''. === History of the terms and concentrations === The terms "perfume" and "cologne" lead to much confusion in English. "Perfume" is often used as a generic, overarching term to refer to fragrances marketed to women, regardless of their exact concentration. The term "cologne" is applied to those sold to men. The actual product worn by a woman may be an eau de parfum rather than an extrait, or by a man an eau de toilette rather than an eau de cologne. The reasons why the terms "perfume" and "cologne" are often used in a generic sense is related to the modern development of perfumery in Europe since the 18th century. The term "cologne" was first used in Europe in the 18th century to refer to a family of fresh, citrus-based fragrances distilled using extracts from citrus, floral, and woody ingredients. These "classical colognes" were supposedly first developed in [[Cologne, Germany]], hence the name. This type of cologne, which is still in production, describes unisex compositions "which are basically citrus blends and do not have a perfume parent."<ref name="Glossary C">{{cite web|title=Glossary (C) |url=http://www.fragrance.org/glossary.php?l=C |publisher=The Fragrance Foundation |access-date=7 November 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100731203552/http://www.fragrance.org/glossary.php?l=C |archive-date=31 July 2010 }}</ref> Examples include Mäurer & Wirtz's ''[[4711]]'' (created in 1799), and Guerlain's ''Eau de Cologne Impériale'' (1830). "Toilet water," or eau de toilette, referred to wide range of scented waters not otherwise known as colognes, and were popular throughout the 19th century. The term "perfume" emerged in the late 19th century. The first fragrance labeled a "parfum" extract with a high concentration of aromatic compounds was Guerlain's ''[[Jicky]]'' in 1889. In the first half of the 20th century, fragrance companies began offering their products in more than one concentration, often pairing an extrait with a lighter eau de toilette suitable for day wear, which made their products available to a wider range of customers. As this process accelerated, perfume houses borrowed the term "cologne" to refer to an even more diluted interpretation of their fragrances than eau de toilette. [[Guerlain]], for example, offered an eau de cologne version of its flagship perfume ''[[Shalimar (perfume)|Shalimar]]'' and many of its other fragrances. In contrast to a classical eau de cologne, this type of modern cologne is a lighter, less concentrated interpretation of a more concentrated product, typically a pure parfum, and is usually the lightest concentration from a line of fragrance products.<ref name="Glossary C" /> The eau de parfum concentration and terminology is the most recent, being originally developed to offer the radiance of an EdT with the longevity of an extrait. Parfum de toilette and EdP began to appear in the 1970s and gained popularity in the 1980s. In the 21st century, EdP is probably the most widespread strength concentration. It is often the first concentration offered when a new fragrance is launched, and usually referred to generically as "perfume."<ref name="NYT71218" /> Historically, women's fragrances tended to have higher levels of aromatic compounds than men's fragrances. Fragrances marketed to men were typically sold as EdT or EdC, rarely as EdP or perfume extracts. This is changing in the modern fragrance world, especially as fragrances are becoming more unisex. Women's fragrances used to be common in all levels of concentration, but in the 21st century are mainly seen in EdP and EdT concentrations. Many modern perfumes are never offered in extrait or eau de cologne formulations, and EdP and EdT account for the vast majority of new launches.{{citation needed|date=June 2019}}<ref>{{Cite web |title=A Guide to Perfume Types |url=https://www.perfume.com/article-a-guide-to-perfume-types |access-date=25 April 2022 |archive-date=25 December 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171225091907/https://www.perfume.com/article-a-guide-to-perfume-types |url-status=live }}</ref> ===Solvent types=== Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume-oil dilution is alcohol, typically a mixture of ethanol and water or a [[rectified spirit]]. Perfume oil can also be diluted by means of neutral-smelling oils such as fractionated [[coconut oil]], or liquid [[wax]]es such as [[jojoba oil]] and [[Almond|almond oil]]. ===Applying fragrances=== The conventional application of pure perfume (parfum extrait) in Western cultures is behind the ears, at the nape of the neck, under the armpits and at the insides of wrists, elbows and knees, so that the pulse point will warm the perfume and release fragrance continuously. According to perfumer [[Sophia Grojsman]] behind the knees is the ideal point to apply perfume in order that the scent may rise.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://forward.com/news/144873/perfume-nose-conjures-up-perfect-scents/ | title=Perfume 'Nose' Conjures Up Perfect Scents | website=Forward.com | access-date=8 August 2015 | author=Berger, Paul | date=26 October 2011 | archive-date=11 August 2015 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150811182008/http://forward.com/news/144873/perfume-nose-conjures-up-perfect-scents/ | url-status=live }}</ref> The modern perfume industry encourages the practice of layering fragrance so that it is released in different intensities depending upon the time of the day. Lightly scented products such as bath oil, shower gel, and body lotion are recommended for the morning; eau de toilette is suggested for the afternoon; and perfume applied to the pulse points for evening.<ref>{{cite book|author1=Agata A. Listowska, MA |author2=Mark A. Nicholson, ASO |name-list-style=amp |title=Complementary Medicine, Beauty and Modelling|year=2011|publisher=Xlibris Corporation|isbn=9781456888954|pages=153–4}}{{self-published source|date=December 2017}}</ref>{{Self-published inline|certain=yes|date=December 2017}} Cologne fragrance is released rapidly, lasting around 2 hours. Eau de toilette lasts from 2 to 4 hours, while perfume may last up to six hours.<ref name="Turkington, Carol and Jeffrey S. Dover 2009 148">{{cite book|author1=Turkington, Carol |author2=Jeffrey S. Dover |name-list-style=amp |title=The Encyclopedia of Skin and Skin Disorders|year=2009|publisher=Infobase Publishing|isbn=9780816075096|page=148}}</ref> A variety of factors can influence how fragrance interacts with the wearer's own physiology and affect the perception of the fragrance. Diet is one factor, as eating spicy and fatty foods can increase the intensity of a fragrance.<ref name="Fragrance Info / FAQs">{{cite web|title=Fragrance Info / FAQs |url=http://www.fragrance.org/faqs.php |publisher=The Fragrance Foundation |access-date=7 November 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121108031824/http://www.fragrance.org/faqs.php |archive-date=8 November 2012 }}</ref> The use of medications can also impact the character of a fragrance.<ref name="Fragrance Info / FAQs" /> The relative dryness of the wearer's skin is important, since dry skin will not hold fragrance as long as skin with more oil.<ref name="Turkington, Carol and Jeffrey S. Dover 2009 148" /> Summary: Please note that all contributions to Christianpedia may be edited, altered, or removed by other contributors. If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly, then do not submit it here. 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